The Origins of Criolla
Argentina's wine culture is often celebrated for its renowned Malbec and increasingly popular Torrontés. However, hidden among the country’s viticultural treasures lies a grape that has long been overshadowed and is now enjoying a well-deserved resurgence: Criolla. This grape variety, deeply rooted in the history of Argentine winemaking, offers unique characteristics and a rich heritage that wine enthusiasts are beginning to rediscover. In this blog post, we will explore the history, characteristics, and growing popularity of Criolla, shedding light on why it is Argentina's best-kept secret.
Historical Roots
The history of Criolla is intrinsically linked to the early days of winemaking in the Americas. Brought to South America by Spanish colonists in the 16th century, Criolla is one of the oldest grape varieties in the New World. The name "Criolla" refers to the grapes' Creole origins, signifying its adaptation and cultivation in the new environment of the Americas.
Criolla Chica, also known as País in Chile and Mission in the United States, was the first grape variety to be widely planted across the continent. Over centuries, it has given rise to various mutations and crosses, resulting in a family of Criolla grapes that are uniquely suited to the diverse climates and soils of Argentina.
Genetic heritage: Recent genetic studies have revealed that Criolla Chica is closely related to the Listan Prieto grape from Spain's Canary Islands. This lineage connects Criolla to the broader history of European viticulture and underscores its significance in the development of wine culture in South America. Additionally, other varieties like Criolla Grande and Criolla Mediana have emerged from natural crossings and mutations, adding to the genetic diversity and complexity of the Criolla family.
CHARACTERISTICS OF CRIOLLA
Appearance and cultivation: Criolla grapes are typically characterized by their medium-sized, loosely packed clusters and thick-skinned berries. The vines are hardy and adaptable, thriving in the varied climates and altitudes of Argentina. They are particularly well-suited to the dry, arid conditions of regions such as Mendoza and San Juan, where they benefit from the intense sunlight and cool nights.
Aromatic profile: One of the standout features of Criolla wines is their aromatic profile. Criolla Chica, for instance, often presents aromas of red fruits like strawberries and raspberries, combined with subtle floral notes and hints of spice. Criolla Grande, on the other hand, tends to offer more robust fruit flavors, including cherries and plums, along with earthy undertones.
Flavor and structure: On the palate, Criolla wines are typically light to medium-bodied, with bright acidity and moderate tannins. This makes them highly drinkable and versatile, capable of pairing with a wide range of foods. The wines often exhibit a refreshing, juicy quality that is balanced by their lively acidity and gentle tannic structure.
Versatility: Criolla's versatility extends to its winemaking potential. It can be crafted into a variety of styles, from fresh and fruity reds to elegant rosés and even sparkling wines. This adaptability is one of the reasons why Criolla is gaining popularity among winemakers and consumers alike, as it allows for a broad spectrum of expressions that cater to different tastes and preferences.
THE REVIVAL OF CRIOLLA
Historical neglect and modern rediscovery: For much of the 20th century, Criolla was largely neglected in favor of more commercially popular varieties such as Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its historical association with lower-quality table wines and bulk production contributed to its decline in prestige. However, the recent trend towards rediscovering indigenous and heritage grape varieties has sparked renewed interest in Criolla.
Pioneer winemakers: Innovative winemakers in Argentina have been at the forefront of the Criolla revival, and Lis Clement and her team at Finca Feliz are certainly ones to look out for. These pioneers are dedicated to showcasing the unique qualities of Criolla through meticulous vineyard management and modern winemaking techniques. By focusing on low-yield, high-quality production, they are able to bring out the best characteristics of the grape, resulting in wines that are both expressive and refined.
Terroir-driven expressions: The diverse terroirs of Argentina play a crucial role in the renaissance of Criolla. Regions like the Uco Valley in Mendoza, with its high-altitude vineyards and varied soil types, provide ideal conditions for producing distinctive Criolla wines. The altitude and diurnal temperature variation help to preserve the grapes' natural acidity and aromatic complexity, while the varied soils contribute to the depth and character of the wines.
THE FUTURE OF CRIOLLA
Sustainability and biodiversity: The revival of Criolla also aligns with broader trends in sustainability and biodiversity in viticulture. As winemakers seek to promote more environmentally friendly practices, the hardy and adaptable nature of Criolla makes it an attractive option. Its resistance to drought and pests reduces the need for chemical interventions, while its deep roots help to maintain soil health and prevent erosion.
Expanding consumer appeal: The increasing popularity of Criolla is not limited to Argentina. As more consumers become interested in discovering unique and authentic wines, Criolla is finding a growing audience worldwide. Its approachable flavor profile, versatility, and historical significance make it an appealing choice for wine enthusiasts seeking something different from the mainstream offerings.
Educational efforts: Educational initiatives are also playing a key role in the resurgence of Criolla. Wine schools, sommeliers, and industry professionals are working to raise awareness about the grape's history and characteristics. Criolla, Argentina's best-kept secret, is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered. Its rich history, unique characteristics, and growing popularity make it an exciting addition to the world of wine. From its early days as a staple of colonial viticulture to its modern renaissance, Criolla embodies the resilience and adaptability that define Argentina's winemaking heritage.
Criolla is a varietal that offers a delightful journey through Argentina's diverse terroirs and vibrant flavors. As more winemakers and consumers embrace this versatile and expressive grape, Criolla is poised to become a shining star on the global wine scene. Next time you find yourself seeking a distinctive and historically rich wine, reach for a bottle of Criolla and savor the hidden gem of Argentina's viticultural landscape. With each sip, you'll be tasting a piece of history and a glimpse into the future of Argentine wine.
